"FUEL SAVING TIPS"

First thing: Are you pumping your own gas?

GasBuddy.com Top Ten Fuel Saving Tips
1
Avoid High Speeds
As your speed increases, your aerodynamic drag increases in an exponential fashion. Driving 62 mph (100 km/h) vs 75 mph (120 km/h) will reduce fuel consumption by about 15%.
2
Do Not Accelerate or Brake Hard
By anticipating the traffic and applying slow steady acceleration and braking, fuel economy may increase by as much as 20%.
3
Keep Tires Properly Inflated
Keep tire air pressure at the level recommended by your vehicle manufacturer. A single tire under inflated by 2 PSI, increases fuel consumption by 1%.
4
Use A/C Sparingly
When the air conditioner is on it puts extra load on the engine forcing more fuel to be used (by about 20%). The defrost position on most vehicles also uses the air conditioner.
5
Keep Windows Closed
Windows open, especially at highway speeds, increase drag and result in decreased fuel economy of up to 10%.
6
Service Vehicle Regularly
Proper maintenance avoids poor fuel economy related to dirty air filters, old spark plugs or low fluid levels.
7
Use Cruise Control
Maintaining a constant speed over long distances often saves gas.
8
Avoid Heavy Loads
Remove the sand bags from your trunk in the spring and pack lightly for long trips.
9
Avoid Long Idles
If you anticipate being stopped for more than 1 minute, shut off the car. Restarting the car uses less fuel than letting it idle for this time.
10
Purchase a Fuel Efficient Vehicle
When buying a new vehicle examine the vehicle's rated fuel efficiency. Usually choosing a small vehicle with a manual transmission will provide you with great fuel economy.

** If you have any of your own fuel saving tips, please send them in!!

So-Cal Northwest Speed Shop has some new projects

Mantis had the opportunity to talk briefly with Jim Sandlin at the Seattle Roadster Show. Check out his So-Cal Northwest Speed Shop. It's your one stop shopping for hot rod parts and accessories. The shop has a number of projects underway; 1932 Ford Roadster, '57 Chevy Bel-Air, '54 Mercury Woodie and a '50 Chevy Pick-up. They also have a great merchandise and parts section. Make sure and stop by their site.

Pinstriping a car is in art and Austin Pinstriping makes it happen!

Here is Dave Austin (Austin Pinstriping) and Kevin Brown of Mantis Rodz. Dave pinstriped the "Praying Mantis" that's featured at the Seattle Roadster Show. He is working on a web site, but you are able to reach him by phone at 206-353-7877. It was great seeing you at the show Dave-thanks again for visiting Mantis Rodz!

Talkin Shop with Mantis's Kevin Brown and Lazar

We are dong some cylinder head work on the Mantis a couple days before the Seattle Roadster Show...

This in the engine that was previously in the Mantis...

36 ford pick up parts...

36 ford cab with a 55 chev front end?...

283 cu in motor and adapter for the pick up

inside 36 ford pick up front fender

Garage time with "Dad" is something special. Kevin Brown's father shared that time with him and now Kevin is passing his passion on to others. Max Lazar is an eager 8 year old that is learning the ropes at an early age. He walks around with a '65 GTO-1:24 Scale model-that houses a monster engine with tri-power carbs. Steve and Max journey around Kevin's garage and see the '36 Ford in different stages, an incredible restored '56 Chevy and the "Praying Mantis" getting ready for the Seattle Roadster Show. One can see all the different engines; one that was in the "mantis" and the other going into the '36.

The fenders to the '36 Ford took some hours. Kevin had to cut out the rust and weld new metal to the fenders.

Silver Auctions getting a car ready for the big show!

Does anyone know what kind of car this is or what kind of horse power it's cranking out? Mantis would like to thank Silver Auctions again for allowing us to check out the event.

Getting a classic car "show ready!"

Hello Mantis and the rodzreaders. Here's a question for the upcoming Seattle Roadster Show. A lot of you will be attending or even have a car in the show this year. What are the steps that you take to get your car "show ready?" It's like an athlete preparing for an event; the last two weeks he or she will hone in on the deal. If any of you could name 5 important steps to make it happen, let's hear em!

Painting a classic car: YouTube Expert Village clip

There are a lot of steps to restoring a classic car-and painting is one step you don't want to skimp on. The clip brings up potential problems to be aware of. Have any Rodzreaders experienced a butchered paint job? Mantis Rodz would like to thank Lance Lambert for his expertise from this video clip. Check out Vintage Vehicle TV for some of his upcoming events. Thanks again Lance!

De-Icer and Car Damage???

Hey Mantis,

I have a question that I thought you car experts might be able to answer.

This winter has been extremely cold in the Pacific Northwest, and for the first time, I bought de-icer for my car. But I am concerned about whether the de-icer will damage my car or paint job. I can't seem to figure it out on the internet. Do you guys know anything about de-icer?

What can be done when a classic car goes through a fire?

How many classic cars are destroyed by fire each year? In the late '80s-Hall of Fame baseball player and classic car collector Reggie Jackson, had 30 of his vintage automobiles in a warehouse when a fire occurred. It was a total loss. The building's value was $800,000 and the contents $3.2 million.

Mantis asks the question to the Rodzreaders-What can be done to restore some of these rides? When does one say it's a complete loss-or give it a shot to restore the ride?

Take a look at the SS Camaro that Mantis found at a body shop the other day. At first Mantis thought that the car was in the process of being painted. Unfortunately the car was in a garage that went up in flames. There was also a convertible in the garage that didn't make it.

Give us your take on this scope of Shop Talk!

Street Rod Headquarters out of Vancouver, WA

Mantis took a quick journey down to the border of Washington and Oregon to find Street Rod Headquarters. They are "your single source street rod parts provider.

Street Rod HQ has you covered from brakes to window glass and rubber. Take a look at their goods. The car in the photo is featured on their website.

Street Rod Headquarters
1605 NE 112th Street
Vancouver, WA 98686

1-866-681-7426

Muscle Car Decals by Phoenix Graphix.

"Any Decal, Any Car, Any Year!" This is what you will find at Phoenix Graphix. Their decals help bring your classic car back to its original factory appearance. They are the world's largest manufacturer of licensed restoration decal kits.

See Phoenix Graphix for the list of auto decals and stripe kits available. The 1973-74 Cuda from the Phoenix site shows an example of the stripe kit.

Look at what Mantis ran across-Holton Secret Lab!

Here is a cool company with an awesome slogan: "We don't test the bounds of creativity. We set them." Now that says something!

Holton Secret Lab is a company out of Helix, Oregon that specializes in custom auto restoration with over 30 years experience in custom painting, design, fabrication and restoration of vintage cars, motorcycles and trucks.

Take a look at Holton Secret Lab for some of the incredible vehicles that have been restored. Looks like they have won a number of awards as well. This '56 Ford Pro Street F-100 is one of many in Holton's Portfolio Gallery.

Sandblasters, Inc. in Marysville is "Where the finished product begins."

Sandblasters, Inc. claims "Don't throw it away - Blast It Away!"... and blast it they do!
This company understands how to protect metal by using the right amount of air pressure to remove old finishes and rust. They specialize in paint and rust removal, and provide powder coating, chrome and ceramic coatings.
Check out Sandblasters, Inc. to get more information about this company. The photo of the car is on Warren's website and is one of his favorite projects.
4721 56th Place NE, Marysville, WA 98270
Local-360-658-9372 Toll Free-1-877-705-8833

Phil's Finishing Touch-restoration shop in Seattle.

Cruzin'-The Northwest's Own magazine is packed with information on Northwest Cars, Northwest people and Northwest events. Mantis would like the Rodzreaders to take a look at Phil's Finishing Touch if anyone is in need of restoration or collision help in the Pacific Northwest.
Phil's shop covers classic car restoration, insurance work, complete paint, fiberglass repair, metal replacement and pre-purchase inspection. The above photos are right from Phil's shop.
Company: Located at 7401 - 8th Ave. So., Seattle Phone: 206-763-3319

Mantis locates Classic Industries Parts and Accessories

When one is looking for a great company dedicated to quality restoration and performance equipment for the classic car take a look at Classic Industries. The above photo was from a Barrett-Jackson consignment car-2008 auction.

Classic Industries covers parts for the following vehicles:

Camaro
Firebird
Nova/Chevy II
Impala/Full size
Chevy/GMC Truck

One can also download a Classic Industries catalog of the above mentioned vehicles. Go to Classic Industries to find the finest selection of top quality reproduction and original GM parts and accessories anywhere.

Edelbrock's Endurashine makes polishing a thing of the past!

Edelbrock recently introduced a time saving method by bringing Endurashine to the market. This new product eliminates the time-consuming/sweat labor that it takes to make your intake manifold and other engine parts shine.
Endurashine is an easy three-step process; a base coat, intermediate coat and a final coat. It's a very durable product with long term results and performance characteristics. Apply a non-solvent cleaner like Simple Green to keep what's under the hood looking good. Before you attend the next car show-give Endurashine a shot.
A couple of web sites to view to help you understand more about the products:
Edelbrock
Simple Green

The "R" Word

MANTIS:
The decision to invest time and money into creating a custom rod or restoring a classic is a big one. Classic cars hold their value while a new car's value begins to decrease the moment you drive it off the lot. Over the typical 60 month financing period on a new car, it will decrease in value to less than 25% of its original price. But a well done, historically significant classic or innovative, well-designed and built rod will likely hold or increase its value. That is, if it does not decay. And the biggest decay threat is rust.

In fact, your first consideration in assessing whether a vehicle is worth restoring or customizing should probably be the extent and remediation of rust, because that may turn out to be the most expensive repair you will encounter. If you do it right, it costs. If you don’t do it right, it costs even more because everything you do beyond rust repair will fail.

Rust occurs when bare metal is exposed to salts (such as is used on roads in snow climates, and which occurs in the air in coastal climates), acids (such as acid rain and rodent urine) and soil with high iron oxide content (red mud), and moisture (rain, constant high humidity, road splash, windshield and trunk gutter leaks). Rustoleum is a great site to understand which product is best for rust removal. When your work is accomplished, check out The Paint Guide to see which direction in paint you want to go.

Understanding rust
Rust is, simply put, destructive oxidation, and it weakens metal.

Oxidation is the interaction between oxygen molecules and the other substances they come in contact with. In rare cases oxidation can produce a desired effect (such as making the hard surface we call anodized aluminum or the green patina on copper) neither of which weakens the metal itself. But usually it is destructive such as in the aging of human skin — or the rusting of an automobile. In the case of the iron component in steel, oxygen creates a slow burning process, which results in the brittle brown substance we call rust.

The reason some steel is called “stainless” is because it has a thin molecularly bonded coating of another metal that does not contain free radicals (think of those as “loose cannon” electrons).

Oxidation happens at the molecular level. Oxygen causes molecules called “free radicals” to break away. In fruit, this affects the protective peel but doesn’t damage the fruit itself unless there is a break in the peel in which case the slow burning process causes brown spots and eventually spoiling.

In a car, the outermost layers of paint are constantly exposed to air and water. If the outer peel (finish) is protected by a wax or polyurethane coating, oxygen molecules in the air interact and diminish the replenishable wax surface and the actual paint is thus spared. But if oxygen is allowed to burn up the free radicals contained in the paint, the finish becomes duller and duller. Restoration then requires removing thin layers of affected paint and reapplying a new layer of protectant, whether that is a new clear coat of paint, or a protective wax or other compound.

Rust is insidious. It is a cancer ― once it gets started, it will only grow worse. It is a continuous process. It is unwise to think that it can be arrested ― it must be eliminated, then prevented. If the base metal fails, your bondo and paint and weather stripping, seals and gaskets, even mechanical parts such as brake lines, and robust appearing structural components such as the suspension, will fail. Then, at some point, you (or some other poor guy) will have to start over. On the other hand, a properly restored car may last much longer than even a brand new car bought today. How insidious is rust? A rule of thumb is the iceberg rule ― what you see is only 10% of the hidden actual. And, let’s face it, a car with rust is a pain to work on (consider the time required to use a tap and die when a nut rounds off or a bolt breaks!).


Prevention is a whole lot easier than repair
Once you have achieved a rust-free state for your vehicle, how do you keep it that way? After all, even if you have a dozen coats of lacquer, your sheet metal is still protected by a thin layer of primer and finals coats. Get the smallest break in that protective coating ― whether from a rock thrown from a truck, or a scratch from a diamond ring, a ding at just the right angle from the door of a neighboring car in a parking lot, or a pit from the odd hail storm ― and you have an entry portal for moisture. From there, it is just a matter of time before rust begins.

No matter how mundane cleaning and waxing is (some people actually enjoy it), clean and wax your car twice a month. While you’re at it, look for scratches, pin holes, sharp edge dents, anything that breaks the paint ― especially if it shows bare metal through the primer.

If you have touch-up paint, apply it to the break with a very fine brush or even a toothpick. If you lack paint, use clear touch-up, or even clear nail polish. The goal is to fill the depression, not build up the sides and thus create a texture to catch grim and hold moisture. If your car uses a clear coat, applying clear coat after the repair will look best and further “seal the wound from infection” (actually, a very apt analogy).










A RodzReader Challenge
Now that we’ve explained scientifically what you always knew intuitively, here’s your challenge: Looks at the five photos. Rust buckets. Barn finds. Hulks. Derelicts. Whatever you call them. If you were looking for a new project, which would you want to take home? There are important visual clues in each photo. We’ll tally the votes as they come in, but we’re particularly interested in your thought process.

First, we’re interested in knowing how you weight such factors as:

• How much rust there is visible?
• Does it have any rust-through holes in it?
• n what shape were the seals and gaskets that keep the elements out?
• Will the front or rear windshield be removed?
• How will you access rusted internal and hidden areas, as well as bonded or layered panels
• How are the most common sites for rust (rocker panels, fender wells, trunk, inside doors?
• Does it appear that rust has been covered by bondo, sound-deadening tar, or gravel guard, or over chronically moist areas (such as under a padded vinyl roof)? If so, it could be rusting from inside out.
• Are there signs of previous, poorly executed rust damage repair? (Repairs will take longer.)

Second, our RodzReaders will appreciate any of your tried-and-true repair techniques. What have you learned about how and when to use:

• Media blasting (high-velocity blown sand, soda, aluminum oxide, or synthetics like Star Blast)
• Chemical stripping (e.g., Mar-Hyde Tal-Strip II Aircraft Coating Remover); chemical dipping
• Electrolytic soaking
• Pneumatic and electric sanding devices (orbital, linear, random) and abrasive media.
• Hand methods, with sanding blocks, various papers, and 3M Scotch-Brite pads.
• Riveting, spot welding and bead welding or replacement sheet metal.